Loy Kratong in Chiang Mai

ITINERARY:

Day 1: Singapore - Chiang Mai - Samoeng - Mae Rim - Chiang Mai
Day 2: Chiang Mai - Doi Saket - Sankamphaeng - Bo Sang - Chiang Mai
Day 3: Chiang Mai - Doi Inthanon - Mae Chaem - Mae Ho - Mae Sarieng
Day 4: Mae Sarieng - Mae Sam Laep - Ob Luang - Hot - Chiang Mai
Day 5: Chiang Mai - Singapore



ABOUT LOY KRATONG

Loy Kratong is traditionally performed on the full moon night of the twelfth lunar month, which usually falls on some day in November. The floating of a kratong – a banana–leaf cup – is intended to float away ill fortune as well as to express apologies to Khongkha or Ganga, the River Goddess.

Made from the cellulose trunk of a banana tree, the idea behind the kratongs is to put all your misfortunes in a boat, and allow them to literally float away. ("Loy"- to float, and "krathong" - a leaf cup or bowl) Great care is taken to decorate the kratongs with flowers and banana leaves, leaving room for the candles and 3 sticks of incense.

It's believed the "boat" will carry your bad luck into the distance, and enable a better start to the following year. Loy Kratong is a big night for lovers. Couples who make a wish together on this day will enjoy long-lasting love, especially if their kratongs remain together on the water.

The nearly week-long Loy Kratong celebrations held in Chiang Mai are by far the most interesting, with the added feature of a parallel festival called Yi Peng. Yi Peng is celebrated by launching hot air balloons made of rice paper into the night sky.



DAY 1 (23 November 2007, Friday)

I arrived at the Budget Terminal in Changi Airport, with a pretty amazed look. I never expect that the Budget Terminal to look so well-facilitated and glamour, especially after some Christmas decorations. They have quite a couple of shops & cafes, which I find it rather impressive for a budget terminal.



The flight departed on time and I arrived in Chiang Mai at 0830hrs local time. I got on an airport taxi for 120Baht (S$5) and the driver sent me to Tha Phae Garden Guesthouse which I had a reservation.


Although its a guest house, it certainly looked more like a hotel. Everything is so clean and nice, and it has a swimming pool too! The place is run by the Nok family, where Nok and Dang are sister-in-laws.




I rented a 125cc motorbike for 150B (S$7) after some bargaining with the owner. It was a Honda Dream 125, a very convenient bike to zip around town. I setup my GPS & RAM mount on the bike and then decided to venture out of Chiang Mai City.

With riding tips from GT-Rider.com, I went on the Samoeng-Mae Rim loop. As claimed that is the best 100km loop out of Chiang Mai, indeed it lived up to expectations. I hit Route 108 out from Chiang Mai and made a right turn into Route 121, followed by 1269.

R1269 offers good views of the western side of Doi Suthep-Pui. It's a great road with lots of twisties, lots of beautiful resorts almost throughout the side of the road. In the broader part of the River Tha Chang Valley, luxury developments make this part of the valley look like a little Switzerland. It's indeed like riding in some sort of Fairy Tale land. I couldn't stop lesser for photos as the scenery was magnificient.... so is the ride!




Flowers along the way had bloom so nicely, especially now is the sunflower bloom period. Every couple of kilometres, there are some really nice, bright yellow sunflowers.

Along Route 1269, I stomped across the 'Doi Lium Viewpoint' signage and went for it. The 3km journey uphill is a challenging ride with some steep accend on offroad terrain. At the peak, I was rewarded with this view nevertheless.


I reached Samoeng town at about 1330hrs and had lunch at Supanee Restaurant. Food is simple and inexpensive at this small little town.


Moving on after lunch, I headed towards Mae Rim, on Route 1096. This is taken at one of the viewpoints.



I stopped over at a Hmong Village known as Ban Nong Hoi and Ban Nong Hoi Mai. Here, the Hmong pursue modern economy but keep their ways. A Royal Development Project is currently on the way.



I've had some shots of these little kids outside the school gate.



Sunflowers were abundant along this route, with some even larger than the size of a human palm.

Arriving next at Mae Sa Falls, I was shocked when the entrance fee shows that entry for Thai is 10Baht (S$0.43), while entry for foreigners is 400Baht (S$17). No kidding, I hesitated for a while before finally decided to pay up 400Baht just to enter the Park.

The Mae Sa Waterfalls consist of a 10-tier of falls from the top. Visitors will have to walk for 2km on the stepped cascades to get to the top of the falls. Well, you judge for yourself if you will ever pay 400Baht to see what I am seeing now. For me, its the first and the last.





When I was back at Chiang Mai, I called up the bike rental shop and demanded for an exchange of bike as the current Honda Dream is deemed unsafe. The front brakes are almost not working and the suspension feels worse than a pogo stick. The staff is friendly and efficient. They replaced the Honda Dream with a Honda Wave 125 with no questions asked. Well, I'll prefer this over the Honda Dream as electric start makes starting so much easier, and the underseat storage is at least 3 times larger.

By this time, it's already 1900hrs. So I proceeded to ride around town to see the Loy Kratong Events happening around. Tha Phae Gate area is super packed, and traffic is almost not moving. Eventually I settled down at Mae Ping River near Nakornpin Bridge to see the locals set their kratongs on the river.




The atmosphere is excellent...... there were lots of fireworks, firecrackers, kratongs and yi peng everywhere along the river. The night sky is literally filled with thousands of these bright lights shining like a moving river of stars. It's a truly magical sight.





This is my Kratong which I had bought from a group of girls who mentioned that the money collected for the Kratongs will go to charity. There is no fixed selling price for it, it's entirely up to me to offer any amount for the kratong. I gave them 50Baht (S$2), and this girl helped me light up my Kratong. After some wishes, I set it down down Mae Ping River.


The lanterns shining brightly at Tha Phae Gate.


A visit to Chiang Mai wouldn't be complete without shopping at the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar.






DAY 2 (24 November 2007, Saturday)

I got up at 0500hrs as mentioned by Dang, that monks start collecting food from about 0530hrs at the Somphet Market. I went straight to Somphet market and waited for them. Soon one by one started arriving and the locals offered them food in their huge bowl. After which the monks will say some prayers to the food doners, who kneels down and listen to the monk's prayers.





The peaceful look of Chiang Mai city early in the morning.



Then I moved on to Suthep Road where the road leads to Wat Prathet Doi Suthep. At the foot of the mountain, there are more monks collecting food by the roadside.



I had breakfast at the food eatery outside Huay Kaew Waterfalls enroute Wat Pratard Doi Suthep. The fried instant noodle was great, coupled with a fresh hot coffee. After which, I made my way up to Wat Pratard Doi Suthep.

I must say that this is another of the best route I've ever ridden since the legendary '1896 curves' on the Mae Hong Son Loop I did 2yrs ago. The tarmac is nicely paved and the road bends at a positive angle. If you are riding a big capacity bike, I am sure you will enjoy the high speed bends and plenty of knee slidings!


On arrival at the temple, there is a long flight of stairs to the temple, 290 steps to be extact. Instead, I chose to take the elevator, by paying 20Baht (S$0.87) more, on top of the 30Baht ($1.30) entrance fee for foreigners.


From the outside of the temple, you can see the entire Chiang Mai City, including Chiang Mai airport. The view is breathtaking, just that its a little foggy, and the pictures didn't turn out too well. Inside the temple, it was pretty packed with tourist as this is the most-visited temple in Chiang Mai.






On the way out, I saw these few kids dressed in traditional costumes and asked if I could snap a picture of them. One of them replied yes and I proceeded. After I had her picture, she said 'take photo pay money'. So I asked how much, and she replied 'up to you'. I said 'ok' and proceeded to take a few more angles of her and her gang. Then I handed her 20Baht (S$0.87) for her 'service'.



Coming out from the temple, I headed towards Phu Phing Palace, which is just 5km from the temple. Entrance fee is 50Baht (S$2) for foreighners here. This Palace is used by members of the royal family as a winter retreat. However when the palaces is not used, the park/garden area is open to the public for viewing.

I must say that the visit is mainly for the enormous variety of flowers in the garden compound. Some of the roses are as large as a human fist! If you are into nature/wildlife photography, this is the place for you!





Thousand year old tree


Pha Mon Pavillon


Phra Tamnak Siri Song


Moving on, I went on further into Ban Doi Pui Hmong village through some really bad and bumpy roads. The village also has a pleasant terraced flower garden where opium poppy as well as other flowering plants are grown for display There is also a hill tribe museum. Though the main income of the village is derived from tourism, many of the men also work in fields on the mountains slopes beyond the village.




Hmong elderly


This little girl is so cute!


I then proceeded back to Chiang Mai and do the Doi Saket-Sankamphaeng Loop. Route 118 was straight and boring until the turn off into Route 1317. It gets a little more interesting where the narrow road cuts through some villages. Soon I got to Sankamphaeng and went to the much visited Sankamphaeng hotsrpings.

The Sankamphaeng Hot Springs and the Roong Arun Hot Springs Resort have geysers, mineral baths and gardens that make a pleasant setting for relaxation. Entrance fee is 30Baht for foreigners. There were 2 spoits of water spraying into the sky of about 3 story high.


There is a well where the hotspring water are contained to boil eggs. Visitors can purchase raw eggs at 20Baht (S$0.87) for 4 of them, and cook the eggs in the 105 deg celcius water.



And then, the water flows into this little canal for people to soak their feet in.


This is my afternoon relaxation instant noodle + 2 softboil eggs and leg soaking at the hotsprings.


About 1km away is the Roong Arun Hot Springs Resort. Entrance fee is 20Baht (S$0.87), but I just took a glance and went off as the hotsprings here is a much smaller version of the one at Sankamphaeng.

On the super highspeed route way back to Chiang Mai via Route 1317, I made a stop at the Bo Sang handicraft village. They have umbrella making centre among the other handicrafts handmade here.




Everything is handpainted or handmade.




The painters also do customised designs for tourists, on the jeans or wallet or bags.


A lot of novelty is being sold here too.


Back at the guesthouse, I had a quick shower back at the and then proceeded to the Mae Ping River for more Loy Kratong actions. There were more people today as compared to yesterday. Streets along Tha Phae Road and some other roads were block for the festival where many groups performed along the road.

Several streets in the old city are closed to traffic at night for a huge market featuring several stage shows. On the night of Loy Kratong, there's a parade of giant kratongs along with contestants for the title of Miss Nopamas. The procession starts at the Tapae Gate and ends at the river-side where the giant kratongs are floated.









DAY 3 (25 November 2007, Sunday)

I checked out of the guesthouse and headed to Route 108 to Doi Inthanon. Doi Inthanon is the highest mountain in Thailand, at 2565m above sea level. Prior to hitting the peak of the mountain, I had a breakfast stop at the foot of the mountain.


Entrance fee to the Doi Inthanon National Park is 400Baht (S$17) for foreigners and I found a way through the checkpoint without paying!! (not too convenient to disclose it openly online)

At the 20km mark is the Vachiratarn Falls. The water tumbles down a steep slope before the main drop. The falls make a good point to break the journey up the mountain. This falls is definately worth visiting. At the height the water falls, coupled with a rainbow this morning, the sight was magnificent!


Back on the road to Doi Inthanon, temperture gets colder every moment I gain altitude.


The bike struggled its way at the last stretch of road, where I was dragging on 2nd gear and occasionally using the 1st gear to tacle the steep accend. At the peak of Doi Inthanon, I overheard a tour guide telling a 'farang' that the lowest temperature recorded this morning was 4 deg celcius! No wonder I was shivering like nobody's business!!






After I had my shots, I started my downhill ride and made my way into Mae Chaem town. Route 1192 is simply not for the weak-hearted!!! The very very narrow paths twists at ultra tight angles and there were full of sand/potholes on certain stretches. My tyre pressure does not seemed to be right, so in the bends for every bump I go through, the bike bounces and I start sliding around like Gary McCoy.

I had a quick petrol top up at Mae Chaem and then move on to Mae Sariang along Route 1088 followed by Route 108. I stopped over at Mae Ho, about 18km before Mae Cham for the sunflower bloom photo taking session. This scene here is much better than what I saw over the past 2 days. It was the size of a few football fields of bright yellow sunflowers under the late afternoon sun.



I arrived at Mae Sariang at 1630hrs and checked into Riverside Guesthouse (as recommended by Lonely Planet Guidebooks) for just 200Baht (S$9). The room is rather small, and given a corner room, I had a scenie view of the Yeam River.




The river is not fantastic, but at least there is a 'view'!!!


Sunset view from my room.


In the evening, I moved around town to capture some local sights before sunset. The town is pretty laid back and quiet.



Had my favourite Thai fried rive + Tom Yum Koong + Chang Beer for dinner at one of the more popular eateries along the road. This is however a pretty quiet town without much activities going on at night.




DAY 4 (26 Novmeber 2007, Monday)

I had chicken noodle soup for breakfast at one of the coffee shops and then proceeded on the 1hr ride towards Mae Sam Laep. The road cuts through a foggy mountain before moving down towards the jetty of the Salawin River which seperates Thailand from Myanmar.


Sunrise along the way on Route 1194.


At Ban Mae Sam Laep, I met some monks collecting food from the villagers.





There are many tourists here on tour vans. They take them here at the Salawin River for a 2hr boat ride to see the river lives of the Thais and Burmas. I took some pictures at the jetty and make my way back.



This is the only English speaking fella, and he tried to coax me into his boat for a private tour for 600Baht!


Just as I thought I have seen the best sunflower bloom at Mae Ho, I was wrong. There is a house along Route 1194 that houses lots of GIANT sunflowers!!!! Those are the largest sunflowers I've seen in my entire life!







Back at Riverside Guesthouse, I checked out at 12noon and proceeded to the Ob Luang National Park. Entrance fee is again 400Baht for foreigners, however I managed to bargained down to 200Baht (S$9).....

Also known as the Grand Canyon of Thailand, the Mae Chem river thunders though a very narrow gorge. There is a foot-bridge across the river high up across the gorge at 500m height.



I took a short ride into Hot town for petrol stop and then it's home run back to Chiang Mai at full throttle along highway Route 108.

Back at Chiang Mai, I went back to Tha Phae Garden Guesthouse and relax myself after a tiring ride. Loy kratong may be over but not for some... The Thais are still celebrating with kratongs, fireworks, and yi pengs in the city.

I took a walk along the Night Bazaar area to do some shopping, and then had traditional Thai massage at one of the massage parlours at Loy Kroh Rd, followed by a couple of beers at a pub and then back for a rest.



DAY 5 (27 Novmeber 2007, Tuesday)

Nu from Mr. Order Bike Rental shop arrived at 0650hrs to collect my rented bike and I checked-out of the guesthouse at 0700hrs. I managed to get a tut tut along Tha Phae Road to the airport for 80Baht (S$3) and proceeded onto Tiger Airways back to Singapore.



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FAST FACTS

Air tickets: $110
Accomodation: $61
Bike rental: $26
Petrol: $28
Admission fees: $33
Massage & shopping: $113
Food, drinks & miscellaneous: $96
TOTAL EXPENDITURE: S$467

Distance on bike: 872km
Petrol consumed: 21 ltr
Avg fuel consumption: 41 km/ltr



TRAVEL GUIDES / NEWS / MAGAZINES

Chiang Mai Mall - Guide to areas around Chiang Mai
http://www.warthog.co.za/cmm/index.htm

Trips Thailand
http://www.tripsthailand.com/thailand_Major_Destinations_Chiang_Mai.php

Chiang Mai Guidebook
http://www.thailandguidebook.com/chiangmai.html
http://www.thailandguidebook.com/provinces/chiang_mai.html

CityLife Chiang Mai
http://www.chiangmainews.com/

Chiang Mai eGuide
http://www.chiangmaieguide.com/print/attraction_print.html

Amazing Thailand
http://www.amazing-thailand.com/Cmai.html

ChiangMai - ChiangRai
http://www.chiangmai-chiangrai.com/

Destination Chiang Mai
http://www.destination-chiang-mai.com/index.html

One Stop Chiang Mai
http://www.1stopchiangmai.com/

Thailand GuestHouse Finder
http://www.thaiguesthousefinder.com/

Chiang Mai Thai House
http://www.chiangmaithaihouse.com/accom/accom.php

Chom Thong & Doi Inthanon National Park
http://www.chiangmai1.com/chiang_mai/doi_inthanon.shtml

Thailand's North, Mae Sariang
http://www.passplanet.com/thailand/mae_sariang.htm

Travelfish - Mae Sariang
http://www.travelfish.org/location/thailand/northern_thailand/mae_hong_son/mae_sariang

Virtual Tourist - Mae Sariang
http://www.virtualtourist.com/travel/Asia/Thailand/Northern_Thailand/Mae_Sariang-1445119/TravelGuide-Mae_Sariang.html

Travel Mae Hong Son
http://www.travelmaehongson.org/activities7.html

Ob Luang National Park
http://www.chiangmai1.com/chiang_mai/ob_luang.shtml

Thailand QA Forum
http://www.thailandqa.com/

Thai Visa Forum
http://www.thaivisa.com

Photography Thailand Forum
http://www.photographythailand.com/Forum/

Mr Mechanic MotorBike Rental
http://www.mr-mechanic1994.com/

Weather forecast for Mae Sariang
http://www.wunderground.com/global/stations/48325.html?MR=1



TRIP REPORTS & BLOGS

Thailand Travel Blogs
http://www.thaitravelblogs.com/chiang-mai/index.php

Chiang Mai Festivals
http://www.chiangmai-rada.blogspot.com/

Ron Emmons 'Doing the Loop'
http://ronemmons.com/travel/thailand/



MAPS

http://www.chiangmai1.com/chiang_mai/map_of_chiang_mai.htm

http://www.thailandguidebook.com/map/index.htm